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Zack's Faq's
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Sea
Anchor, Para-Anchor, Parachute Sea
Anchor
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After years of open-water
testing coupled with
hundreds of interviews with
cruisers, fishermen, and
sailors from all over the
world, Zack Smith, a modern
day para-anchor inventor
and a full time drag device
expert;
releases this exclusive
list of commonly asked
questions (fall 2000).
 Have
a question you would like to ask
Zack? Submit it today. Please use
this e-mail to submit your
question:
info@para-anchor.com. It will be
reviewed by our office. If it is
chosen, it will posted in our new Zack
FAQ's.
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Defining a Para-Anchor
Q1: What is a para-anchor and
how does it differ from a sea anchor
and drogue device?
A: Para-anchor
is short for "parachute sea
anchor." This large-diameter
parachute system is used to "anchor"
a boat in water too deep for ground
tackle. Its design stops the
vessel's forward progression through
the water and stabilizes its
position to the wind. Initially
designed from selected cargo chutes
at the end of World War II, modern
para-anchors catch more water than
canvas sea anchors used in centuries
past. Due to the increased holding
power of the new para-anchor, the
effectiveness of vessel stability
during rough seas has now expanded
to fit all boat designs. Parachute
anchors (para-anchors)PARA-are still generally referred
to as sea anchors by some sailors
and manufacturers. They come in a
variety of sizes and are deployed
off the bow.
Sea anchors where initially
designed to perform the same
function as the modern para-anchor.
They were required gear on steamers
and later popularized by Captain
Voss in the early 1900s. Sea anchors
where canvas, cone-shaped drag
devices interchangeably used off the
bow and stern. While capable of
working effectively on small boats,
like fishing skiffs, the results
varied when used on boats such as
deep-keeled sailboats because of the
sea anchor's small size and
medium-weight construction. There
are still modern sea anchors built
with a similar cone shape that are
effective on small, lightweight
vessels. Other manufacturers build
para-anchors and refer to them as
sea anchors.
A drogue
is any device towed from the stern
that slows a boat's movement through
the water to increase steering
control and allow for directional
stability. You can use a
manufactured drogue, but rode
bights, tires and various kinds of
warps can also be used as drogues.
Q2: What size para-anchor do I
need?
A:
The diameter of the parachute's
canopy determines the size of the
para-anchor. The
specific size of a
para-anchor you'll need depends on
many variables and circumstances,
such as the design of your boat and
the type of boating you do. Each
parachute anchor manufacturer
provides different size guidelines.
For size guidelines on the
Fiorentino Para Anchors, check out
the
Fiorentino Size Chart.
Para-Anchor Use
Q1: How
do I deploy my para-anchor?
A:
Knowing your boat is an important
factor in deploying your para-anchor
correctly. The safest method of
deploying a para-anchor in rough sea
conditions is to allow the boat's
drift to pay out the rode.
Imagine that sea conditions are
deteriorating and the wind is
picking up. You head your boat into
the wind so that sails luff and the
boat stalls. You can then drop your
jib (or put up a smaller storm jib)
and reef your mainsail accordingly.
If you have a power vessel, use only
enough forward speed to control
steerage. Next, make sure movable
objects are secured above and below
decks, you're wearing your
lifejacket or floatation garment,
and (if applicable) your harness is
tethered to your jack lines. Then
you can safely deploy your
para-anchor:
During deployment, your vessel
should drift leeward, under power if
necessary, at a sufficient speed to
allow your para-anchor to sink away
from your bow. I like to drift at a
speed of one to 1 1/2-knots. You
want to avoid sailing forward or
being stopped completely, because
your para-anchor could end up
sitting next to your boat.
Remove your para-anchor from its bag
and drop it overboard on the
windward side of your bow. In rough
seas, you may find it safer, easier,
maybe even necessary, to deploy it
from the cockpit.
When your para-anchor begins to
submerge and your boat drifts away
from the chute, snub your
Dacron/nylon anchor rode until you
feel the para-anchor open and slow
the drifting motion of your boat.
Pay out your rode at an even pace
and snub it off frequently to keep
tension in the system, effecting a
continuing "pull" from your
para-anchor.
After you've paid out the
appropriate amount of scope, cleat
off your rode. The stretching of
your Dacron/nylon rode will absorb
hundreds to thousands of pounds of
pressure that could otherwise be
stressing your chocks, cleats, or
other bow rigging.
If your bow continues to face the
wind, secure your rudder amidships.
If your boat is wanting to lie beam
to the weather, first make
adjustments to find the proper sail
balance by putting another reef in
your main or utilizing your storm
sails. Then, secure your rudder
slightly to windward. For a boat
with a tiller, you would lash the
tiller leeward and for wheel
steering you would turn it to
windward. If your boat still wanders
beam to the weather-reduce your
anchor rode scope. Last, go below to
get out of the weather and take a
break.
Return to Top
Q2: In storm conditions, when
is the best time to deploy a
para-anchor?
A:
Deploying a parachute anchor in a
50-knot wind from a pitching bow is
difficult, to say the least. The
best time to deploy your para-anchor
is before you feel the weight of the
storm; that is, before you begin to
experience discomfort, fatigue or
seasickness. As the old adage goes,
"better safe than sorry." If you
deploy your para-anchor and find the
seas to settle and the winds to
moderate, chalk it up as experience.
Para-anchors, along with storm
sails, lifejackets, liferafts, and
EPIRBS, are good insurance for
mariners. Being prepared means
having the gear as well as knowing
how to use it properly!
Return to Top
Q3: Can I deploy my
para-anchor in high winds?
A:
Absolutely! Para-anchors by
Fiorentino are packed to avoid
problems associated with high winds.
Fiorentino para-anchors are also
much heavier designed than the
standard sea anchor made out of thin
fabrics. Thin, leightweight sea
anchors are similiar to airman
chutes and require special
containers for deployment. I must
add, however, it is much safer and
easier to deploy any para-anchor
system when wind conditions are more
moderate. Therefore, it's best to
deploy early.
Return to Top
Q4: Should I Heave-to?
A:
Heaving to is a useful storm tactic
that every boater should be familiar
with. Austin M. Knight's 1937
edition of Modern Seamanship
defines heave to "To bring a
vessel's head to the wind or sea and
hold her there by the use of sails
or engines."
In effect, your boat is no longer
moving forward, but stopped and
making leeway with its bow
approximately 10 to 45 degrees from
the wind. The actual position of
your boat in many cases will be very
similar to sailing close hauled.
The weather on the windward side
will push your boat's hull through
the water, increasing drag to slow
your boat down and creating a slick
that will disrupt the approaching
waves. Inevitably, sea conditions
will increase to a point where a
para-anchor is needed to maintain
your vessel in a hove-to position.
Because boat designs and specs vary
widely, different procedures are
required to either maintain your
boat in a hove-to position or to
head the bow straight into the wind
and sea.
Monohull
sailboats will have to trim their
sails and use some form of staysail,
storm jib, or trysail to stay in a
hove-to position. If you use a
para-anchor to maintain a hove-to
position, you should find the use of
a bridle system very helpful.
How To Bridle A Monohull
Multihull vessels normally lay their
bows directly head to sea. Because
multihulls have a lot of windage, I
would use a para-anchor and rig a
bridle from my two outer hulls
before running or lying ahull.
How To Bridle A Multihull
Heavy trawlers and sport boats
function well when para-anchors are
run straight from their bow or at a
slight angle off the wind. An
additional
snubber or spring line
may be used to form a short bridle
that spreads anchor loads to more
than one cleat. If the power vessel
is swinging at anchor, then secure
the spring line to an amidship cleat
so the boat takes the weather on the
bow quarter.
Different boat designs and sail
plans will determine if you need to
use a storm sail or to bridle a
para-anchor. So, practice with your
equipment in moderate to heavy winds
and seas to give yourself the chance
to make an educated guess as to what
to expect in stronger storm
conditions. Besides, there's no
greater feeling of accomplishment
than successfully maneuvering in a
light to strong gale. Remember,
simple preparation will allow you to
fine tune your vessel and give you
the confidence to make prudent
decisions when it counts.
Return to Top
Q5:
Can I use a para-anchor for my
motorboat?
A:
Yes. Thousands of Fiorentino
Para-Anchors have been sold to
powerboat skippers, who have used
them successfully for more than 60
years.
Return to Top
Q6:
How is a para-anchor retrieved using
a trip line? How do I make my own
trip line?
 A:
You will really appreciate your trip
line after the storm calms. Simply
motor or sail up to your retrieval
float while pulling in the anchor
rode slack during your approach. The
wind normally keeps the trip line
downwind from the submerged
para-anchor. Use a boat hook to
collect the retrieval float off the
windward side of your boat. Pull the
trip line aboard and pull in a
collapsed parachute canopy.
Lightweight polypropylene makes an
excellent trip line and is tied or
clamped to the criss-cross pattern
of lines located by the small
opening on the backside of a parachute
anchor. Pulling on the line spins
the top of the parachute 180 degrees
until the force of water that
inflated the canopy now pushes the
canopy walls together. The chute
collapses, so it can easily be
pulled aboard your boat. There are
two types of trip lines, full or
partial. The full trip line extends
from the para-anchor to the boat and
the partial trip line extends from
the parachute to a float. Here's one
way to rig a partial trip line:
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Use 50- to 100-feet, 1/4-inch or
1/2-inch polypropylene line. I
prefer using 50-feet, because
it's easy to handle when
deploying your para-anchor by
yourself.
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Grab one end of the line and
measure approximately 25-feet.
Now that you are at the center
of the trip line, secure the
support float to the line. I
typically use a commercial
fishing float because it's small
enough for easy packing. The
support float provides tension
on the trip line to prevent the
line from slacking and catching
on the parachute canopy.
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Secure one free end of the
polypropylene line to the
criss-cross pattern of lines
located at the backside of the
para-anchor and secure the other
free end to an existing buoy or
boat fender (also called a
retrieval float). I use a larger
buoy at the end of the trip line
to make it easier to both spot
and hold the weight of the
collapsed chute.
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Remember to guard against chafe
at your attachment points. A
section of garden hose works
wonders in this regard.
Trip Line
Return to Top
How To Rig Your Para-Anchor
Q1: What type and size of
anchor rode should I use with my
para-anchor?
A:
There are two types of rode commonly
used: braided and stranded. Either
one can be used effectively with
your para-anchor. You compare:
Braided rode
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will not unravel like stranded
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stronger than stranded
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much easier to work with and
stow
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resistant to torque and kinks
Stranded rode
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stretches more which increases
shock absorption
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much easier to splice than
braided
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typically cheaper than braided
A common concern with stranded rode
is that it can unravel while
attached to a para-anchor, but
because Fiorentino's Offshore Anchor
won't spin underwater, there is no
need to worry that the rode will
unravel.
You can always add a swivel if you
still have concerns about the rode
unraveling near the boat.
When it comes to protecting your
boat's foredeck hardware, the more
rode you deploy, the greater amount
of shock the anchor system absorbs.
It's important to mention that we
still need to maintain "constant
rode tension" to avoid long periods
of slack rope. Slack rode can lead
to dangerous shock loads that can
weaken any rope fiber quickly.
Rode Deployment
Size Chart
Use this chart as a
guideline for
matching
rode and
para-anchor
diameters.
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Rode Diameter |
Para-Anchor
Diameter
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1/2" |
6' |
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5/8" |
9' |
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5/8" |
12' |
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5/8" |
16' |
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5/8" |
18' |
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5/8" - 3/4" |
21' |
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3/4" |
24' |
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3/4" |
28' |
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7/8" - 1" |
34' |
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1 1/4" |
40' |
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The size of anchor rode
depends on the type of boat
you own. Consider the
following:
Anchor rode length stored
aboard light vessels should
be a minimum of 300-feet.
Minimum diameter for the
anchor rode should be half
an inch. Heavy vessels or
vessels with excessive
windage should carry 300- to
600-feet of rode. Minimum
diameter should be 5/8- to
3/4-inch. The standard
amount of rode to stow is 10-feet for every foot of
vessel. Smaller vessels like
kayaks, rafts, and pleasure
boats require smaller
amounts of rode.
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Rode Size Assistance
Return to Top
Q2: Should I use chafe gear?
A:
Chafe gear is good to
store aboard your boat to reduce
wear on anchor rode created by
vessel motion or rode stretch. Nylon
rode moving over a fairlead, roller
guard or boat edge may create enough
of a sawlike motion to cut fibers.
To prevent chafe that can occur at
any contact point on your boat, be
sure to:
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Use 24 to 36 inches of
high-pressure hose or two layers
of firehose.
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Then use a small spare line to
secure the hose to the boat or
to the anchor rode itself.
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Even if you use chain to avoid
chafe, add some hose because
metal on metal -- as in chain
rode scraping on the bow pulpit
-- can be as destructive as
metal on nylon.
Chafe Gear
Return to Top
Q3: Do I need to add weights
to my parachute?
A:
Yes, for storm use. And there are
two types of weight to consider:
1) Canopy Weight
2) Rode
Weight
Adding weight to the para-anchor
system was first introduced in the
late forties by Gerrard Fiorentino,
who claimed that sewing chain weight
into a section of the canopy skirt
and/or attaching 6 feet of chain at
the end of the anchor rode was the
best method for holding the anchor
below dangerous breaking seas. As a
testament to his clear thinking,
current research concludes that
para-anchors that are allowed to
float near the surface of breaking
seas can be pushed, rolled and spun
out of control. These unruly actions
can tangle the canopy and lead to
danger for the vessel and her crew.
Today, fishing weights are
commonly sewn onto a section of the
para-anchor's canopy. The canopy
weight reduces the tendency of the
anchor system to spin by holding it
safely below the ocean's surface
even in heavy seas. Chain is still
used as a rode weight when attached
at the end of your anchor rode,
which will hold the para-anchor deep
below the surface and reduce rode
slack. "Constant rode tension" is
the "big secret" in maximizing
para-anchor performance.
The choice of using weight with any
parachute anchor system is dependent
upon whether the anchor is used for
storm or sport. My personal
preference is to use a para-anchor
with weight sewn into the canopy and
to stow a spare piece of chain
onboard my sailboat, just in case.
Return to Top
Q4: What is catenary?
A:
An anchor holds best when the pull
of the rode is as nearly horizontal
as possible. Catenary refers to the
sag or curve in the anchor rode that
allows for horizontal -- rather than
vertical -- pull on an anchor. In
the case of ground tackle, holding
power is increased as you increase
the length of your rode. Adding
weights half way down your scope
decreases the angle at which the
anchor is pulled and increases its
efficiency of holding.
You add weight to the nylon line
attached to a para-anchor to reduce
shock loads placed on your foredeck
equipment. Weight placement
(normally chain) can be used
anywhere along your anchor rode. My
personal preference is to place the
weight closer to the para-anchor
instead of the boat.
Adding weight also maintains a
constant strain on the rode to
reduce slack. "Constant rode
tension" will keep the para-anchor
fully inflated at all times and
greatly reduce sudden leeward surges
of your vessel.
If you use all chain rode, you need
to use large buoys equally spaced
along the rode to prevent the chain
from sinking too deep. Additionally,
the buoys will act as shock cords to
prevent strain on your boat.
Return to Top
Q5: How do I know how much
scope to pay out?
A:
It's best to carry at least 10-feet
of rode to every foot of boat to
prepare yourself for a worse case
storm scenario. Even so, you'll
probably never use all of your
scope.
When I deploy a para-anchor
I always pay out a small portion
of rode at a time and secure it to a
cleat. When the boat feels solid and
comfortable, I relax; when the bow
begins to feel bumpy, I pay out more
rode.
Sailors that own multihull vessels
commonly use bridle systems that
limit their ability to adjust rode
lengths. Consider rigging a minimum
of 12-feet of chain or an equivalent
of 16 pounds near the para-anchor.
Extra weight should reduce slack in
nylon lines that are too long. The
chain diameter to use is dependent
upon matching the tensile strength
of the nylon rode.
Return to Top
Q6: How do I bridle my
monohull?
A:
Use the same diameter anchor
rode that you use for your
para-anchor. Pendant line length
is "one foot for every foot of
boat," as established by
Fiorentino. Pendant lines are
typically spliced or shackled to
a 3-inch stainless steel snatch
block.
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Depending on the size of your
boat, you will use only a small
portion of your pendant line.
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One or two support floats are
used to keep the snatch block
afloat during slack periods.
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The anchor rode is placed
through the snatch block that
sets up your bridle.
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Anchor rode may be set off the
bow or through a port chaulk,
hawse pipe, or cleat. Anchor
rode set from the bow may
sharply bend on some vessels.
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Your pendant line is attached to
your jib or stern winch. Use
your winch to adjust the angle
of your boat when you're hove-to
on a para-anchor.
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A stiff pendant line made with a
hard laid rope can provide
better control to position your
boat to the weather.
Various snatch blocks, cleats,
fairleads and thimbles are just
as effective in making a bridle
system work for your boat.
Return to Top
Q7: How
do I bridle my multihull?
A:
A bridle for a multihull can be
made in the same fashion as the
monohull. The main difference is
that your bridle is rigged off
the two outer hulls of the
multihull. The multihull
generally takes the weather on
the bows as opposed to a
heave-to position. Bridle arms
on average extend 25- to 60-feet
off each of the bows, depending
on the type of bridle system
that you use. My rule of thumb
is to construct a bridle "one
foot for every foot of boat."
u can reduce pressure on your
foredeck attachment points by
increasing the length of a fixed
bridle. (A fixed bridle is made by
placing one piece of line through
the anchor rode's thimble or by
attaching two separate lines to the
thimble.)
Snatch or swivel
block pendants function better with
a shorter bridle arm. Fixed bridles
work better with longer arms. Avoid
making block bridles too long,
however, because they tend to hang
loose causing anchor rode pull to
increase on the single bow that it
is attached. If this happens, your
boat can end up spinning beam to the
seas. A stiff pendant line made with
a hard laid rope can provide better
control to position your boat to the
weather.
Return to Top
Q8: How do I rig a spring line
for my para-anchor?
 *At
the end of World War II, Fiorentino
successfully used elastic cords from
air craft carriers to make a
para-anchor spring line (photo to
the left).
A:
Spring line, also referred to as a
snubber line, stopper or shock cord,
are used to absorb some of the shock
on a mooring or anchor line to which
a boat is riding. There are two
methods of rigging spring lines for
vessels keeping their bow into
the weather while riding to a
para-anchor.
The first
requires running anchor rode through
a separate thimble or snatch block
that is spliced into a nylon line.
In this case the spring line is
short and is attached to a separate
bow fitting opposite the anchor
line. Both lines protruding from the
port and starboard fittings form a
small bridle. Such a setup allows
parachute anchor loads to spread to
the port and starboard deck
fittings. A spring line arranged in
a bridle set is most effective when
sailing in strong, persistent winds.
Individuals use this particular type
of spring line when it is too much
of a hassle to remove your ground
tackle from your bow or there are
weak attachment points on your
vessel.
*A second method entails placement
of an elastic cord, much like a
bungee cord, onto the anchor rode
that is run straight off the bow.
The shock cord is four to six feet
in length, with both ends of the
cord rigged with shackles or
thimbles. Anchor rode is run through
the hardware, which is located on
the shock cord, and then clove
hitched to the shock cord. A small
section of anchor rode will hang
loose between the knotted shock
cord. Since the shock cord stretches
more than nylon, it absorbs more
strain than anchor rode. However, if
the shock cord breaks, the nylon
rode will take over the workload.
This particular spring line is good
at reducing strain on your deck
fittings, including your anchor
windlass.
Return to Top
Q9: Is rudder damage an issue?
A:With
a properly rigged parachute anchor
the likelihood of rudder damage
occurring is rather slim. Even with
minimal risk there still is a chance
that a boat could lose its grip in
heavy weather and slide backwards,
jamming the rudder over hard enough
to shear the pintles or part the
rudder from its shaft. Adding simple
rudder stops and shock cord to the
tiller are two common ways to reduce
possible rudder damage.
On a boat with wheel steering, it
might be wise to disconnect the
steering system and insert the
emergency tiller to avoid weakening
any part of the wheel system. Be
careful about getting too
comfortable with locking the
steering down just because it is
easier than retrieving the emergency
tiller out of the boat locker.
Return to Top
Para-Anchor Storage
Q1. How compact are Fiorentino
Para-Anchors?
A:
Remarkably compact, considering how
large the canopy opens underwater.
Fiorentino Para-Anchors are made
with pliable materials and contain
no stiff wires or metal-a great
advantage for easy packing. Your
packed para-anchor looks just like a
rolled up sleeping bag. The tighter
you roll your para-anchor, the
tighter the fit.
Loose Packed
Dimensions (Includes hardware):
|
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Coastal Anchor Size
|
Diameter |
Length |
Offshore Anchor Size
|
Diameter |
Length |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
6' |
11" |
7" |
3' |
9'' |
6" |
|
9' |
15" |
9" |
6' |
17'' |
9" |
|
12' |
19" |
12" |
9' |
22' |
11" |
|
16' |
30" |
15" |
12' |
29' |
13" |
|
18' |
34" |
16" |
16' |
37'' |
16" |
|
21' |
36" |
17" |
18' |
41'' |
19" |
|
24' |
40" |
19" |
21' |
47'' |
21" |
|
|
|
|
24' |
50" |
23" |
|
|
|
|
28' |
56" |
24" |
|
|
|
|
34' |
60" |
26" |
|
|
|
|
40' |
66" |
28" |
Packing Photos
Return to Top
Q2: What does the system
weigh?
A:
The following
charts show the shipping weights of
Fiorentino's Offshore and Coastal
Para-Anchors (Includes hardware):
Return to Top
Q3: Is it easy to repack and
stow my para-anchor?
A:
Yes. After retrieving your
para-anchor, you won't have to spend
much time folding your parachute to
make sure it will deploy on its next
use. Our unique roll-proof packing
technique is:
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Quick -- it takes just two
minutes
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Won't tangle shroud lines
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Only takes one person
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Guarantees your para-anchor to
work upon next deployment
Packing Photos
Return to Top
Q4: Will salt water damage my
para-anchor?
A:
If saltwater dries on your
para-anchor, a residue of salt
crystals forms on the material.
These crystals can breakdown nylon
fibers over time. This process
normally takes many years to occur.
A freshwater rinse is all it takes
to protect your para-anchor. If
possible, allow some drying time in
the shade, too. If it's inconveniant
to clean the para-anchor then at
least rinse the stainless hardware
and pack the chute. The anchor will
likely remain wet until you return
to shore where it's easier to
properly clean your setup.
Return to Top
Q5: Will my nylon parachute
rot or mold?
A:
Fiorentino para-anchors never rot or
mold. The heavy-duty nylon is
designed to last for years. I have
para-anchors from the 1950s that are
still in great condition. Black
spots can appear on the para-anchor
if you don't rinse the equipment.
The spots are from organic
substances that build up on the
surface of an unwashed parachute
canopy. Black spots shouldn't effect
the integrity of the Fiorentino
para-anchor.
One thing to keep in mind is
proper care and maintenance of your
para-anchor, especially when using
it for extensive commercial
purposes. Treat your para-anchor
right and you'll get good use out of
it for a long time to come.
Return to Top
Troubleshooting
Q1: What are some common
mistakes people make with a
para-anchor?
A:
The following mistakes have been
shared with me by other sailors. You
can use their experiences to avoid
your own mishaps:
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Forgetting to place the shackle
between the anchor rode and the
para-anchor
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The trip line is not attached or
is rigged improperly to the
para-anchor
-
The chafe gear is not placed on
the anchor rode prior to
deployment
-
If you use your ground tackle
rode, finding out that your
hardware is locked and frozen to
the ground anchor, rendering it
useless when you need it for the
parachute
-
You have either a deteriorated
or unrigged surplus parachute or
sea anchor that came with the
boat and have never pulled it
out of the bag to check its
condition
Emergency or storm situations arise
very quickly. You probably won't
have time to check your
para-anchoring system, so stay one
step ahead of the game and be
prepared before you leave the docks
for a day-sail or blue water
excursion.
If you need advice on your drag
device system, e-mail two or three
clear photographs of it. I'll look
them over and get back to you as
soon as I can.
Q2: How can my para-anchor
help me avoid falling off or heading
into the wind?
A:
Here's the scenario:
Your boat is
effected less by the wind when it
drops into the trough of a wave. As
soon as you reach the crest, you're
blasted by wind. This causes some
boats, depending upon their design,
to either swing beam to the seas or
head directly into the wind. This
forces your sails to luff into irons
or causes you to accidentally tack.
To avoid
falling off or heading into the
wind, try to stabilize your boat by
creating balance between your boat
and para-anchor. Balance can be
achieved through the
"Trilibrium Factors."
They include:
1) Sail trim; 2) Rudder positioning;
and 3) Rode length.
Familiarity with your boat makes
sail and rudder trim
straightforward. For example, as a
gale intensifies, the bow of a
fin-keel sloop normally starts to
fall off the wind. In such
instances, reducing sail forward to
control leeward movement is an
obvious opening tactic. If you're
still having trouble achieving a
comfortable balance, the next step
is to hold the bow up with rudder
angle, by steering more to windward.
If this doesn't do it, and as sea
state changes, a third adjustable
factor - anchor rode length - comes
into play.
Anchor rode length has a huge role
in the maintenance of harmony
between your boat and parachute
during deployment in heavy weather.
If the boat feels like it is heading
beam to the seas, even after
adjusting sail and rudder, some rode
needs to be retrieved because
there's too much slack in the
system. Excessive slack in the
parachute system can be avoided by
deploying small portions of rode at
a time.
Whenever you need to buy time for
making balance adjustments on your
boat, move your rudder to find a
position that gives a settling
motion to your boat. Aides like the
bridle, spring lines, storm sails,
and makeshift leeboards all help in
achieving what we all desire, safety
and comfort.
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Q3: What can I do to keep my
boat from jerking and being pulled
through the waves?
A:
Once again, the "Trilibrium" factor
of rode length comes into play.
Anchor rode is like a rubber band. A
short band is more resistant to
being pulled apart than a longer
one. Similarly, a short rode will
stretch less, turning your boat and
crew into a shock absorber when
waves are too large. Experiment with
paying out more anchor rode. I'm
sure you'll notice a difference.
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Q4: How does a person tangle
anchor rode around a keel or rudder?
A:
I have never seen an anchor rode or
any para-anchor manufactured by
Fiorentino catch underneath any of
our test boats. A problem like this
can occur, however, when the
para-anchor is deployed on the lee
side of your boat or when there is
insufficient lee drift and the
para-anchor ends up sitting next to
your boat.
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Q5: I've heard that a boat's
bow can feel like it's being pulled
underwater when retrieving a
para-anchor. What causes that?
A:
You're correct when you say "feel
like" because, most often, your boat
is not actually being pulled
underwater. It just feels that way
because the inflated parachute is
hanging directly under your boat
like a wide-mouthed bucket filled
with water.
If this is hard to imagine, just
think of a bucket of water the size
of your boat's beam on deck. Now
imagine that the seas are sloppy
with small waves. Naturally, your
boat will want to rise up and over
any wave, but that parachute full of
water under your boat does not allow
for this to happen. Therefore, a
person will feel the bow stay put as
waves nearly wash over the deck
which, leads to unwelcome thoughts
of disaster. This is the number-one
reason sailors mistakenly cut their
para-anchors loose.
Using a trip line abates this
problem because it neutralizes the
drag of a parachute during
retrieval. As a skipper motors
forward to slacken anchor rode, the
parachute's hardware will sink the
parachute until the retrieval float
on the trip line stops the downward
motion. With no tension on anchor
rode the para-anchor will hang
loosely and effect no drag.
It is important to note that smaller
para-anchors do not require a trip
line, since they are more forgiving
during retrieval. In contrast,
larger para-anchors should have at
least partial trip lines. If a boat
owner decides not to use a trip
line, he/she should wait until
weather and sea conditions are calm
before attempting to retrieve the
anchor.
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Other Storm Tactics
Q1: What about using storm or
reef sails?
A:
Every boat or ship reacts
differently in high winds. The
design of the boat will either allow
it to ride comfortably with a
para-anchor or cause the bow to
swing back and forth. Staysails,
storm trysails, storm jibs, or
reefing your main can be very
effective in stabilizing your
sailboat. Storm sails also add the
advantage of decreasing para-anchor
loads placed on your foredeck
hardware.
Sailors must find a sail plan that
works best for them and their boats.
I find it uncomfortable and
difficult to spend a lot of time on
a bouncing deck when a fellow
technician and I are practicing in
dangerous sea conditions. On sloops,
for example, I quickly bring down
the main and furl the jib to about
1/3 the normal sail area before I
backwind it. The rudder must be hard
over to the windward side as soon as
you backwind the jib. In seconds,
the boat is stopped in a hove-to
position.
I deploy my para-anchor at this
point to maintain the hove-to
position. Then I change the rudder
position close to amidships, with a
slight angle toward the windward
side. You can normally sit in this
position comfortably until you reach
force 9 winds. Eventually, a reefed
main or trysail should be put up to
maintain the balance of your boat.
You should always consider using
chafe gear with standing rigging to
protect your sail from unnecessary
wear and with a jib sheet to keep it
from chafing through the line.
Experimenting is the best way to
learn the proper sail balance to
hold your boat in a heave-to
position. Here are some common sail
plans recommended by authors of
various books about sailing:
Morley Cooper's The Cruising
Yacht (1945)
"Ordinarily, a schooner or
cruising type may be
successfully hove-to simply by
sheeting in the foresail flat,
while dropping all headsails.
The mainsail has been furled
sometime previously, of course.
A yawl or ketch should lay to
quietly under a flattened mizzen
and jib, but the jib may have to
be sheeted slightly to windward
in order to offset the tendency
of the boat to sail. This trim
of jib or staysail may also be
required with the schooner. The
cutter heaves to well under
shortened mainsail (or storm
trysail) and jib. The sloop
rig...with a storm trysail and
perhaps a storm jib, you can
sometimes work out a combination
of sail trim and rudder setting
that will prove entirely
satisfactory."
Erroll Bruce's Deep Sea
Sailing (1978)
"In a sloop the headsail is
backed by hauling aft the
weather sheet, the mainsheet is
checked, and the tiller secured
a-lee, some cutters,
particularly if they have a long
bowsprit, will need to lower the
jib before backing the staysail.
It is not wise to heave-to for
any length of time with an over
lapping genoa, as this will be
hauled against the weather
shrouds and chafe."
Lin and Larry Pardey's Oriental
Adventure
& Storm Tactics
Handbook (1983, 1997)
"I have lain hove-to quite
happily in our cutter with
reefed mainsail only. Two of the
ketches we delivered lay hove to
in force-ten winds with just
their mizzens sheeted in flat.
Some fin and skeg boats heave-to
with a storm jib on the
backstay: others are happy with
a storm trysail set..."
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Q2: What about lying ahull?
A:
Lying ahull is a common tactic used
by many sailors to combat heavy
weather, but in my experience, it's
not the best plan. However, if you
want to try it, the first thing you
want to do is drop all sail. Next,
for powerboat skippers and sailors
alike, secure everything above and
below decks. You are now lying
ahull, just like a piece of wood
drifting in the ocean.
This tactic works fine until the
seas build. It was my father's
favorite storm tactic when we sailed
in the straits of Juan De Fuca and
the San Juan Islands. While I don't
remember it as an efficient storm
tactic, I do recall lots of objects
flying around the boat, which caused
mighty painful bruises.
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Q3: What about running?
A:
If you're unable to make it into a
protected harbor, running before a
storm is another tactic you can use.
To accomplish this, enough sail must
be used to keep a boat moving uphill
on the back of waves. If you use
power to run, you'll have to "jog"
in the weather by increasing and
decreasing speed to maintain
steerage of the boat.
It's important to learn to actively
steer any type of boat to avoid
breaking crests and hopefully avoid
racing down the face of any wave too
fast. Streaming warps or drogues off
your stern greatly aid in steering
and reducing the chances of
pitchpoling or broaching.
Adlard Coles in his book Heavy
Weather Sailing 3rd edition,
points out that plenty of sea room
is needed and, in very bad storms,
running has the disadvantage of
presenting the vulnerable part of
the boat, the cockpit and aft
bulkhead to the following seas.
Furthermore, it may be impossible to
steer a vessel through a storm with
just two people. Coles, an advocate
of heaving-to, concluded that most
authorities find running with warps
streamed is the best answer in
gales. I personaly believe that
para-anchors and drogues both work
equally well. It's just a matter of
personal preference on what tactic
you choose to use. The para-anchor
tends to be more popular than the
drogue since exhaustion is a
significant issue with running.
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Q4: Should I use oil and how
effective is it if I do?
A:
For centuries, mariners have used
oil to smooth the effect of heavy
seas by reducing breaking waves. The
oil weighs down the water, keeping
the wind from building up the size
of the waves. Waves approaching the
oil slick are reduced in size by the
time they reach your boat. Oil, just
like your para-anchor, should be
deployed on the windward side of
your boat. The best oil to use is a
vegetable or animal oil. Oil is
dispersed through:
-
An oil bag tied off the bow of
our boat
-
A canvas bag connected to your
trip line or para-anchor
-
A bottle of oil with a punctured
cap secured to your railing
-
Flushing of the heads while oil
continues to drip in them
If you decide to use or make your
own oil bag, Austin Knight's 1937
edition of Modern Seamanship,
recommends using a canvas bag of
close-woven canvas, stuffed with
oakum, cotton, rags, or waste
saturated with oil, and punctured in
a number of places by a large
needle.
The amount of oil required for a
boat is dictated by the size of the
seas. Austin Knight mentions that
two gallons an hour is sufficient to
calm the seas. Commercial fisherman
that I interviewed in San Pedro,
Calif., will use approximately one
gallon or less per hour. They
normally use large coffee cans
filled with oil, punctured at the
bottom with a nail, and tied off the
bow.
I suggest carrying at least two
gallons of cooking oil, enough to
buy you some time to stabilize your
boat so you can deploy a makeshift
or manufactured drag device in heavy
weather.
Related:
About Zack Smith
Seminar
Schedule
Technical Reports
On-the-Water Training on You-Tube
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